Stockholm, City of Islands
We arrived at the Bromma airport in Stockholm, on time at about 1:15. There was a power outage at the airport which held up the baggage carrousel and after much complaining by fellow passengers and a bit of frustration on our part as well, we finally retrieved our two suitcases. Thank goodness for “wheelies,” today’s wonderful suitcases with wheels. We had a long trek out of the airport, up a ramp to the bus stop only to learn that the bus into the city had left and a new one wouldn’t be there for another hour. We were feeling a bit anxious as we were to meet my friend, Lynn (old highschool chum, married to a Swede for the past 45 years) at 4 p.m. at afChapman, the hostel where we had booked our reservation. Luckily, the driver of another bus took pity on us and told us and other delayed passengers to jump aboard. All turned out well and we arrived at our destination on time. Lynn was there waiting for us and we were delighted to reunite. We have seen each other on many occasions over the years, with her trips to the U.S. but it had been 4 years since out last get together. She and her husband live very far north in Luleo, Sweden, so she was gracious to come down to Stockholm to meet us. She is the one who had suggested we stay at the hostel which is on an old schooner sitting in a beautiful inlet of the Baltic sea on the island of Skeppsholmen, a perfect location for seeing all the key sights of Stockholm. Our room was a small 6’x 8’ ships cabin with a port hole, sink, small desk and chair and a top and bottom bunk. The bathroom was just down the hall a short way. We had all that for a mere 80 SEK (Swedish Kroners), about $100 a night---imagine what a hotel room would have been. Not only are they much more expensive but it was nearly impossible to find one as there was a major international medical convention going on in Stockholm that week. We were delighted with our lodgings and also with the hearty Swedish breakfast we got each morning for about another $6, especially since we were able to pilfer extra rolls, cheese, tomatoes and ham for sandwiches for our picnic lunches. Gary was delighted to find they had Glutin free bread for toast and even offered him nice chewy rolls which were GF.
Lynn took us on a tour of the old town section of Stockholm, Gamla Stan . To get there we crossed a bridge and marveled at the many boats, beautiful old wood ones as well as sleek modern yachts lined up along the quais. Stockholm is a city of islands, 14 in all, on the Baltic Sea and on the biggest lake in Sweden, Melaren.. Walking past the royal Palace and the Swedish Parliament building to the the narrow cobbled streets of Gamla Stan, was like going back four hundred years in time. The quaint iron signs illustrating the shops’ specialty, the small alleyways and the turreted buildings surrounding us were all enticing reminders that we were in the old world though at the same time, in a very modern and progressive city. We began to call it the “land of beautiful people” for everywhere we looked the people seemed slim, fit and beautiful, walking briskly along the streets (that’s the key---like all Europeans they walk a lot, using public transportation, it sometimes seems, more than private cars---the bus system is easy to use as well as the tram and the underground.) Gary’s head was spinning admiring the tall and beautiful blue eyed blonds everywhere, and I didn’t find the men much less attractive!
We found a charming and small restaurant where we were glad to finally sit down and have dinner after our long day of walking and exploring. The meal was simple, fish and boiled potatoes but the final bill was shocking at more than $20 each. We realized we would have to watch our pocketbook and take advantage of picnic lunches. We walked back to our ship, afChapman and snuggled down in our bunks, feeling the soft listing of the boat as we drifted off into a deep sleep.
Our second day in Stockholm we met Lynn at the nearby museum where she had bought tickets for us to visit the Terra Cotta Soldiers of China, an exhibit we had seen years ago in Portland shortly after the unearthing of this ancient treasure trove. Seeing it now was twice as good, for two reasons: one, they have since unearthed and put on exhibit worldwide, many additional finds, and two, the exhibition was held in one of the many underground caves of Stockholm. The old medieval buildings often had a stone understory. Going underground to see the Chinese treasures created a great feeling of being there at the time when they were first discovered by archeologists in the 80’s . The most recent finds in the display were in the early 2000’s.
After viewing the exhibit we took a long, long walk to another park like island called Djurgarden where we visited Skansen, one of two must see sights recommended by my cousin, Torkel. Lynn agreed. Skansen is a model village of the past which occupies a huge area of the island. One can visit old craftsmen’s shops where the workers wear the clothing of the past and work with old tools to make furniture, saddles, iron works, glass, etc. Streets wind in and out and one sees houses and buildings, many of them originals moved here from other parts of Sweden. The four hours we spent there flew by and we stopped only for a fifteen minute picnic break on a park bench. By the time we left it was 6:00 and we headed back to Gamla Stan for dinner and then back to our schooner, tired but satisfied after a long day getting to know the beautiful city of Stockholm. The only negative thing was that for the first two days, the weather was overcast and very chilly, with a drizzle here and there, much like Portland weather in the fall. By our last day, the sun came out full force and we enjoyed seeing more sights, especially the Vasa Museum where we viewed a famous ship built in the1620’s, commissioned by King Gustave II Adolf for his royal fleet he was sending to fight the Poles over a land battle. Though Sweden has not been at war since the mid-1800’s her past is not one of the peaceful nation she is today. The Vasa is a fascinating icon of Swedish history, as after two years of being built to represent all the power and prowess of the Swedish empire with beautiful carvings and ornate decoration, this 60 meter long wooden sailing ship came to a fateful end. On 10 August 1648, Vasa set sail on her maiden voyage and sank in the Stockholm harbor. The wreck ws salvaged in 1961 after 333 years under the sea. The reconstructed vessel, 95 percent original, is magnificent to behold in the beautiful museum designed just to house her and looking like a huge metal vessel itself. It offers a unique insight into early 17th century Sweden.
Our last day in Stockholm, Lynn, Gary and I took a boat tour around the city under all it’s many bridges and crossing over from Baltic Sea to freshwater through a series of locks. Afterwards, we met my cousin’s 24 year old daughter, Sofia, who had not been able to join us for the party in Blekinge. She is a beautiful and smart young woman who works as an auditor of a big insurance firm in Stockholm. She was warm and vivacious and we enjoyed getting an opportunity to meet and talk with her. That night Michael, Lynn’s son who is an architect and designer in Stockholm, met us for dinner back at our hostel on the ship. We found the small café there to have the best meals we had tasted and enjoyed eating their “grilled char” a type of freshwater trout well prepared with boiled potatoes and vegetables. It was great to see Michael again. He had visited us in Portland 20 years ago when he was a young man of 2l. Now the father of an eight year old little girl, he is happily looking forward to his upcoming wedding. He and the mother of his daughter divorced a few years ago. We enjoyed hearing about his work, and his inventions. He is an ambitious inventor and has a strong creative streak. We also discussed Swedish politics, and the feelings of Swedes about their “socialist” system which means high taxes but brings many excellent benefits like outstanding health care, no homeless on the streets, and free higher education. Sweden is having an election in the next 2 weeks and most Swedes we talked to were hoping to reinstate the coalition government they have had for the past four years. They have fared well in spite of the economic bust of 2008 and have held unemployment at a low, compared to the US and other EU nations, of 6 %.
We ended our Stockholm visits with wine, beer and Swedish toasts, “Skol” and lots of hugs from Lynn and Michael. Our last night in our ship’s cabin was a restless one as we were excited about the next leg of our journey, Paris
Sunday, September 5, 2010
Thursday, September 2, 2010
First Stop: SWEDEN
The early morning light peeked through slightly overcast skies as we whisked past small towns and over the famous 5 mile long Oresund bridge just opened in 2000,connecting Denmark with Sweden. We stopped
first at Malmo, one of Sweden’s three largest cities and then continued on through many smaller towns stopping at a few, such asLund and Kristianstad. Three hours later we arrived at our destination in Sweden‘s southeast, Ronneby Station. Boris, my second cousin and his daughter-in-law, Anne, were there to meet us with open arms and smiles as we descended the train. We hadn’t seen Boris, who is now 87, for 39 years since we first visited him, his wife Sonja (now deceased) and their two sons, Torkel and Torlief, in 1971. At the time, we were camping through Europe, in a VW van, with our two young daughters (then only 3 and a half and 5 years of age). The years between our visits seemed not to matter and we quickly slipped into easy conversation with Anne and Boris. Boris still speaks some English and where he could not find the words, Anne filled in beautifully. Their fluency in our language humbled us as I know next to nothing in Swedish, even though my mother was a “Svenska flicka”. Being of immigrant parents, she and her sisters never really learned to speak the language---in those days, they were embarrassed by their parent’s lack of English and wanted to assimilate into American culture. Later, she confided she really regretted not learning her parents’ native tongue. She did preserve the customs, however, and shared many of them with me and my brother as we grew up. For that I am thankful, as it has enriched my life and was the inspiration for wanting to once again visit this land of my heritage.
I digress. Back to our Swedish adventure. My cousin, Torkel’s wife, Anne, asked if we were too tired to see some sights. She had prepared a picnic lunch and explained we could stop for that after they took us to see a few places. Tired but happy to have arrived and filled with curiosity, we accepted her invitation. The first thing Boris wanted me to see was the childhood home of my grandmother, Gunhilde. I had always thought it was Malmo but it was actually in Ronneby, just a few streets up from the train station where her father had his blacksmith shop, back in the mid 1800’s. She left Sweden at the young age of 14 and took a ship across the Atlantic to America. It was a thrill for me to see the actual house that she had lived in. We continued on to a nearby park, once famous for it’s hot springs where the elite came to bath in the healthy mineral waters. The skies were clouding over and it was very windy but we bundled up in hats and jackets and had our picnic at a lovely site near a waterfall cascading down a sheer wall of granite.
It was then time to leave Ronneby and head out to the Blekinge's “deep dark woods” as Boris and Anne called the place they live. Blekinge is like a “county’ of southeastern Sweden just above Skane which was once Danish until it became part of Sweden in 1628 after a terrible battle for control of the territory by the king of Sweden. Skane has always had a certain pride in its Danish past and resistence to the powers of Stockholm telling the people of the south what to do. Though Malmo is a thriving cosmopolitan city the outskirts, including Blekinge and Smaland to the north are very rural and consist of many birch, oak, alder and elm forests and massive amounts of granite stone. Wonderful old stone walls lace its lands marking the boundaries of farmlands going back to medieval times. The countryside is pocked with “runes”, large upright vertical stones marking ancientViking burial sites. Over the next four days, Torkel, Anne and Boris filled us in on many fascinating historical details of the region.
In 1972, shortly after our visit with my cousin Boris and Sonja moved from the city of Malmo three hours North to Blekinge, where they bought what they always described to me in letters, as a “forest”. Though we knew they had moved back to the land, we never quite understood the extent of this “forest” they had bought. We now learned that it was 300 hectares, nearly 600 acres, a vast estate on which there are ponds, lakes and wetlands, and beautiful rock canyons and thick forests of birch, oaks, elms and lindon trees and many other botanical riches as well as deer, moose and other small mammals and birds. Later, Boris and Sonja gave this land to their two sons, Torkel and Torlief, now in their fifties, with grown children of their own, to care for and keep in the family. Torlief, a businessman at heart, moved to the city of Gothenburg in Northwestern Sweden, and sold his parcel to his brother, Torkel, who is the true “country farmer”. An erudite educated archeologist and artist, with a profound interest in the history of this land, Torkel works 55 kms. away in Karlskrona, as an art director for one of Sweden’s largest publishers of Sports magazines. He loves his work but is even more enamored with “husbanding” his vast Blekinge woods and protecting its past by inviting people to come and experience Sweden’s medieval past. He, with the help of Anne, friends and neighbors, has built a small medieval village in the midst of their land. You can visit it by going on line to www. Horsehallengsgille.se. One interesting thing we learned was that Sweden, much like England, has a law that says the land though owned privately, must be open to the population to explore and hike upon. People seem to respect this freedom to enjoy but not abuse the land.
We were awestruck as Torkel’s wife, Anne wound her way down narrow forest roads and crisscrossed their land finally stopping at a small red house next to a beautiful lake, surrounded by a few old outbuildings and birch forests. She announced this was their newly acquired “guesthouse“ where we would be staying. We had expected a rustic cabin and instead found we were staying in a charming 1000 sq. ft. house with windows looking out to the lake; We had our own small boat dock and they invited us to feel free to use the small rowboat to explore the lake if we wished. Anne announced she would pick us up at six after we had a couple of hours to rest and recover from our jetlag. She left to drop Boris off at his house, called Lockansmala, a km away on their property. Boris was happy to inform us that we would be having dinner at his house in Lockansmala that night.
As they pulled away, we realized how exhausted we were and quickly fell into a deep afternoon nap. We awoke just in time to freshen up for Anne’s arrival and our wonderful evening of sharing our first Swedish meal of herring, boiled potatoes, Schnapps followed by caffe and kakkar, coffee and cake. Much laughter and merriment ensued and we quickly fell in love with my cousin, Torkel and his delightfully extraverted and generous wife, Anne.
The next 3 days unfolded with many new discoveries about this wonderful place where my relatives live and some of the stories of the family which go back a hundred years or more. Each day we fixed our own breakfast with the food Torkel and Anne had left for us, in the house called Sjotorp. Boris or Anne would pick us up and off we would merrily go visiting many surrounding sites. The best day of all was the one we spent with Torkel and Anne hiking around the woods of their property, muchroom hunting and visiting their small reconstructed medieval village called “Medeltidsbyn” and the huge lake at the southend of their property where they often “bath”, as they say, when describing a swim. Most days had been overcast and cool but that day we had sun and beautiful blue skies. For that night Anne had organized a wonderful family gathering and party with the traditional crayfish feed which takes place each August in Sweden. Torlief and his partner, Annette, arrived from Gothenburg (3 ½ hrs to the northwest from Blekinge..) His daughter Hanna and her boyfriend, Karl, students from Lund, came and Torkel’s daughter, Lena and her partner Fredrick arrived from another area. In all, with Boris, the patriarch of the family, and the youngest son of Anne and Torkel, seventeen year old, Terje, we were fourteen around a beautifully appointed long farm table in a reconstructed timber house built by Torkel last year. The room was lit only by oil lamps and a glowing fire in the big stone fireplace. We drank schnapps and wine and Torlief, quite the singer, led us in Swedish drinking songs throughout the meal. Lena had even made a delicious gluten free cake for Gary for dessert.
You can see our family spoiled us and we fell asleep that night quite happy and contented to have made this our first stop in our adventures. The next day, our family whisked us off to the small local airport where we took a plane to our next stop, Stockholm, feeling a bit sad to say good bye, “hey da” in Swedish, as we departed.
Thursday, August 12, 2010
Getting Ready to Depart
Today, I'm with my dear friend, Marlene, who is helping me get my blog page set up before Gary and I leave on our Big Trip! On August 23 we will celebrate our 45th anniversary by departing on a new adventure. We're cheating a little as our actual anniversary is not until November 6th!
We'll be starting out in southern Sweden, visiting my relatives for a week and then spending a few days in Stockholm with an old high school friend, who married a Swede. From Stockholm we fly to Paris and spend ten romantic days in our favorite city, staying at our pied-á-terre, a small apartment on the Rive Gauche (Left Bank) that we rent from a friend.
…then, off to Turkey, to visit this exotic land of multiple civilizations and rich history. I will be doing a Hot Air Balloon ride over Cappadocia (Gary is shy of heights so will not join me on this adventure). We'll visit Istanbul, the Lycean coast on the turquoise Aegean and small villages in between.
After Turkey, we'll return to France to visit dear friends in Auvergne and Poitiers. We'll head out to the Atlantic coast town of La Rochelle to travel across a long bridge out to our favorite French island, the Ile de Ré with my dear French "sister," Michelle. We'll spend four days there, returning to Paris to fly back home on October 7th, just in time for our Granddaughter Zoë's birthday.
We hope you will enjoy following our adventures via this blog: http://adventureswithsher.blogspot.com/
Monday, March 29, 2010
Just Returned from El Salvador
Hola familia y amigos,
My apologies for not writing more about our adventures the last two weeks. On Thursday, March 18th I left early in the morning by "coche" with a driver to go to Mexico DF airport, 3 hours away, to catch the Mexicana flight to airport. That day I spent more time in cars and airports than I did in the airplane. It was only a two hour flight to San Salvador and Mexicana even served a full hot meal---our airlines sure don't do that anymore.
I arrived at the Comalapa International Airport in San Salvador at 2:05 but by the time I made it through the lines, first to buy the $10 tourist card required in El Salvador and then to pick up my one suitcase and go through customs, it was almost 3:30 pm. My friend, Joalgar, who was waiting outside all that time in the hot sun had begun to think I had missed my plane. There were several planes arriving at the same time so that is why it took so long. As I stepped out into the parking area I was hit by the oppressive heat (about 98 degrees and very high humidity). I had forgotten how hot it could get in El Salvador after living for almost two months in the pleasantly mild climate of San Miguel. Joalgar greeted me with big smiles and hugs and I immediately felt the "warm" welcome. We whisked off in the car with Don Jose, his neighbor who used to drive us in his pick up truck to the Bajo Lempa when I was there in 2006 to teach some of the youth art classes.
When we pulled up 45 minutes later in front of Joalgars house in the suburbs of Ilopongo, the whole family greeted me with hugs. It was fun to see Isabel, Joalgar's wife and their two cute grandchildren, Ronald,age 9 and "la Princessa Isabela" his granddaughter whose 7th birthday we celebrated that night as family friends stopped by. Ronald was so proud to show me his school work and his drawings and Isabela showed me how she can dance. later we all ate pupusas, the dish of El Salvador and went off to bed under the usual mosquito nets. At 10 o'clock at night it was still very hot and sticky but it was still great to be there.
The next morning the children had to go to school very early and Joalgar, Isabel and I had breakfast together. Soon it was time for me to go to the hotel in San Salvador to meet up with all the folks who were arriving that day from Chicago, Rochester, NY, Portland, Oregon, Cincinnati, Ohio and Oakland,California, the delegates coming to join us for the Romero Delegation sponsored by Eco-Viva (the new name of the foundation Gary and I have contributed to for the past ten years which helps small rural villages in El Salvador with tecnical and financial assistance. March 24th was the 30th anniversary of the assassination of Monsignor Oscar Romero, the archbishop of San Salvador who spoke out for the poor and oppressed. It was propitious moment to be in this city not often known for its beauty but rather for the pain of the war.
In the following days as we visited key historical sites in San Salvador and then traveled southeast to the Bajo Lempa (the base of the Lempa River near the Pacific) where our small villages are working to be self sufficient, I came to appreciate the 22 people in the delegation whose ages ranged from 9 years to 80 years old. They were a wonderfully compatible group and it was a joy to travel with them. The young people ranging from 9-17 years old added a special dimension to our delegation and their good behavior and genuine interest in learning about the struggles of the Salvadorenos was impressive. We shared meals with the folks in the village many I have to come to love from past delegations (This was my fourth trip to El Salvador), walked the dirt streets, played games together at night before settling in at our dorm rooms. It was terribly hot and humid but nobody complained and in fact, loved the cold showers. Each day was a new learning experience and even for me after being there so often. I loved visiting the new turtle hatchery which has helped save the four species of sea turtles on the Bay of Jiquilisco which we help support, the Mangroves which line the coast and which my first delegation contributed to 5 years ago when we planted 500 "candles" as the young mangroves are called. They are a very important part of the ecology of the bay as well as protection against the damage of the many hurricanes that El Salvador endures. We learned about the new community youth program and went on a tour of one of the "fincas", farms which is now totally organic growing a variety of fruits and vegetables. The progress is palpable and it feels good to know that the money we have donated over the years is truly making a difference in the lives of these dear people. The last two days of our adventure were spent at a beautiful resort on the Pacific meeting under the shade of palapas by a beautiful beach and next to a huge pool with tropical gardens surrounding it. It was quite a contrast to our first 6 days but much appreciated by everyone. I hope some of you will consider joining me and Gary for a future delegation---it is always a life changing and inspiring experience as was obvious our last day as we had a "reflection" circle in which everyone talked about their "Wow" moments.
I flew home on Friday and was glad to get back to Gary and our little place here in San Miguel. We have had a busy weekend with a birthday "fiesta" at our Mexican family's house for the daughter of our hostess, Francisca. We met many more family members and ate a delicious meal to which I contributed the "botanos"(hors d'oeuvres), small "sopes" made with corn flour and filled with frijoles, salsa and cheese, a recipe I learned in an earlier cooking class. I was happy they let me contribute something. Sunday we got together with our writer friends from Cape Cod for a fun afternoon of sharing our writing and some artwork (Milton has been going to the same sculpture studio where I go and has produced some wonderful pieces and wanted to share his paintings as well,.) Today I finished my second wax sculpture which will be cast in bronze and which Mario, our mentor will then keep for me until I come back next year. Gary and I started our packing tonight anticipating our next two very busy days before we have to leave to head home on Thursday, April 1st. We arrive back in Portland at 11 pm.
We hope you have enjoyed reading about some of our adventures here in Latin America. Each year we come, we find ourselves more drawn to its magic and I must say it helps my Spanish, too. We look forward to seeing our dear kids, both daughters and grandchildren and catching up with lives of our friends as well. Take care and we will see you soon.
Abrazos, Sher and Gary
My apologies for not writing more about our adventures the last two weeks. On Thursday, March 18th I left early in the morning by "coche" with a driver to go to Mexico DF airport, 3 hours away, to catch the Mexicana flight to airport. That day I spent more time in cars and airports than I did in the airplane. It was only a two hour flight to San Salvador and Mexicana even served a full hot meal---our airlines sure don't do that anymore.
I arrived at the Comalapa International Airport in San Salvador at 2:05 but by the time I made it through the lines, first to buy the $10 tourist card required in El Salvador and then to pick up my one suitcase and go through customs, it was almost 3:30 pm. My friend, Joalgar, who was waiting outside all that time in the hot sun had begun to think I had missed my plane. There were several planes arriving at the same time so that is why it took so long. As I stepped out into the parking area I was hit by the oppressive heat (about 98 degrees and very high humidity). I had forgotten how hot it could get in El Salvador after living for almost two months in the pleasantly mild climate of San Miguel. Joalgar greeted me with big smiles and hugs and I immediately felt the "warm" welcome. We whisked off in the car with Don Jose, his neighbor who used to drive us in his pick up truck to the Bajo Lempa when I was there in 2006 to teach some of the youth art classes.
When we pulled up 45 minutes later in front of Joalgars house in the suburbs of Ilopongo, the whole family greeted me with hugs. It was fun to see Isabel, Joalgar's wife and their two cute grandchildren, Ronald,age 9 and "la Princessa Isabela" his granddaughter whose 7th birthday we celebrated that night as family friends stopped by. Ronald was so proud to show me his school work and his drawings and Isabela showed me how she can dance. later we all ate pupusas, the dish of El Salvador and went off to bed under the usual mosquito nets. At 10 o'clock at night it was still very hot and sticky but it was still great to be there.
The next morning the children had to go to school very early and Joalgar, Isabel and I had breakfast together. Soon it was time for me to go to the hotel in San Salvador to meet up with all the folks who were arriving that day from Chicago, Rochester, NY, Portland, Oregon, Cincinnati, Ohio and Oakland,California, the delegates coming to join us for the Romero Delegation sponsored by Eco-Viva (the new name of the foundation Gary and I have contributed to for the past ten years which helps small rural villages in El Salvador with tecnical and financial assistance. March 24th was the 30th anniversary of the assassination of Monsignor Oscar Romero, the archbishop of San Salvador who spoke out for the poor and oppressed. It was propitious moment to be in this city not often known for its beauty but rather for the pain of the war.
In the following days as we visited key historical sites in San Salvador and then traveled southeast to the Bajo Lempa (the base of the Lempa River near the Pacific) where our small villages are working to be self sufficient, I came to appreciate the 22 people in the delegation whose ages ranged from 9 years to 80 years old. They were a wonderfully compatible group and it was a joy to travel with them. The young people ranging from 9-17 years old added a special dimension to our delegation and their good behavior and genuine interest in learning about the struggles of the Salvadorenos was impressive. We shared meals with the folks in the village many I have to come to love from past delegations (This was my fourth trip to El Salvador), walked the dirt streets, played games together at night before settling in at our dorm rooms. It was terribly hot and humid but nobody complained and in fact, loved the cold showers. Each day was a new learning experience and even for me after being there so often. I loved visiting the new turtle hatchery which has helped save the four species of sea turtles on the Bay of Jiquilisco which we help support, the Mangroves which line the coast and which my first delegation contributed to 5 years ago when we planted 500 "candles" as the young mangroves are called. They are a very important part of the ecology of the bay as well as protection against the damage of the many hurricanes that El Salvador endures. We learned about the new community youth program and went on a tour of one of the "fincas", farms which is now totally organic growing a variety of fruits and vegetables. The progress is palpable and it feels good to know that the money we have donated over the years is truly making a difference in the lives of these dear people. The last two days of our adventure were spent at a beautiful resort on the Pacific meeting under the shade of palapas by a beautiful beach and next to a huge pool with tropical gardens surrounding it. It was quite a contrast to our first 6 days but much appreciated by everyone. I hope some of you will consider joining me and Gary for a future delegation---it is always a life changing and inspiring experience as was obvious our last day as we had a "reflection" circle in which everyone talked about their "Wow" moments.
I flew home on Friday and was glad to get back to Gary and our little place here in San Miguel. We have had a busy weekend with a birthday "fiesta" at our Mexican family's house for the daughter of our hostess, Francisca. We met many more family members and ate a delicious meal to which I contributed the "botanos"(hors d'oeuvres), small "sopes" made with corn flour and filled with frijoles, salsa and cheese, a recipe I learned in an earlier cooking class. I was happy they let me contribute something. Sunday we got together with our writer friends from Cape Cod for a fun afternoon of sharing our writing and some artwork (Milton has been going to the same sculpture studio where I go and has produced some wonderful pieces and wanted to share his paintings as well,.) Today I finished my second wax sculpture which will be cast in bronze and which Mario, our mentor will then keep for me until I come back next year. Gary and I started our packing tonight anticipating our next two very busy days before we have to leave to head home on Thursday, April 1st. We arrive back in Portland at 11 pm.
We hope you have enjoyed reading about some of our adventures here in Latin America. Each year we come, we find ourselves more drawn to its magic and I must say it helps my Spanish, too. We look forward to seeing our dear kids, both daughters and grandchildren and catching up with lives of our friends as well. Take care and we will see you soon.
Abrazos, Sher and Gary
Friday, March 12, 2010
Time Marches On in San Miguel de Allende
Hola amigos,
Well, the fact that we have not found time to do weekly posts on this blog is indictive of the very busy lives we are leading here. As I am sitting here next to our big arched window, I am witnessing the "fourth of July" in Mexico, a fireworks display par excellance with reds, golds, blues, all colors of the rainbow and the popping sounds which accompany it. Sounds of the mariachis in the streets below us, waft up our hill and the celebration is on. We are not sure for what but, as we said last year, every day in San Miguel is a fiesta. We do know that Monday is a holiday celebrating the birthday of Bonito Juarez, the much loved past president of Mexico who brought changes for the poor and working classes and also passed a law separating Church and State. He was the first and only, we think, indigenous (i.e. indio) to become President.
We are staying in tonight despite the temptation to join the festivities as we have had a very active week since last Saturday, when we left for the Sierra Gordo ("fat mountains") of the neighboring state of Queretero, for a three day car trip. We shared the rental car with our friends, Rosalie and Jack, from Denver Colorado. Rosalie and I researched the area on the internet and with questions to our local Mexicana friends and it sounded too good to pass up.
We left early Saturday morning and by 9 o'clock we were in the charming town of Tequisiapan with a lovely walking street and large central plaza surrounded by an arcade and the usual focal point, a large church with bell tower and decorative coral orange and white facade. We found a cute restaurant and ate breakfast outside under the arcade. Chiliquillias, fresh squeesed orange juice and coffee came to about $4.00 each. After exploring more of the town, we headed for the hills. As we climbed higher up into the beautiful mountains which rose from dry, mesquite and cactus covered "cerros" to a height of 7,500ft. we found ourselves above the "cloud forest" known as "La Puerta de Cielito" ---"The Door to Heaven". As we rose in altitude we were surrounded by a richly vegetated forest of pines, deciduous trees reminding us of autumn with some turning light gold and orange and others covered with pink and magenta blossoms which we later learned were peach trees. Believe it or not, this was mixed with pre-historic looking palms all in bloom with pendulums of white flowers and lower down were a mix of cactus. The area is know for its biodiversity and one can see why. It is actually about 4000 acres of protected biosphere. .We visited several small pueblos and stayed in one the first night by the name of San Joaquin (brings back memories of my high school days in the San Joaquin valley of California when my dad was transferred to Bakersfield---believe me, this San Joaquin was far more picturesque!) We found two clean rooms with baths to rent from Senor Casas (means "houses" appropriately)for only $20 for the night! Senor Casas seemed to be the most entrepreneurial man in town, owning the local Abarrotes (small grocery store) and the lodgings as well as having an interest in the two restaurants, one he recommended for dinner and the other for breakfast. While in SJ we explored the nearby archeological site of Las Ranas, just unearthed in the late 1980's, The ruins were in a beautiful "bosque" which means forest, but were not as dramatic as Monte Alben or Mixla which we visited in Qaxaca last year.
The second day we went on to Jalpan which is the center of a region known for its five famous missions designed by the famous Father Junipera Sera. We remember his many missions in California. We visited two of the five here, which was enough---they are each very differenct with beautiful decorated (almost rococco) facades containing reliefs of the saints and an interesting symbol on each, of the crossed arms and hands of the Dominicans and the Franciscans, apparently representing the "joint venture" in converting the "savage" indios. I must say after the two, and thinking about the suffering of the native peoples building these glorious icons to the church, we had had enough. We were tired and hungry and drove back into Jalpan for dinner at the hotel we had found earlier in the day. We had a rather restless night with a strange noise waking us up which we later found out was some kind of vibrating water pipes just outside our room. After breakfast the next day we headed back towards the big city of Queretero stopping for a couple of hours at Bernal which Rosalie and Jack hadn't seen yet. We described this pretty Mexican town in a former post. After a delicious late lunch there we returned to San Miguel just in time to turn our car in and say Buenos Noches!
Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday I went to the sculpture studio of Mario, the best artists' secret in town which I learned about from a gringo friend last year. I am having a wax sculpture cast here at Mario's foundry, as the cost is so much less than in the US. I started the sculpture 30 years ago at a workshop in Mendocino California and have had fun finally finishing it here. I am now working on a second sculpture. We had guests for dinner on Tuesday night with drinks before on our terrace from where we have a vista of beautiful sunsets and the city below us. Being up high on the hill is a real advantage except when we climb it everyday coming home from our activities in town. It's great exercise. Gary has been doing some woodcarving and vsited with a local wood sculptor, who he hopes to visit more next week when I am in El Salvador. I leave on Thursday, March 18th and will return via Mexico City on the 26th. I will be joining the Romero Delegation sponsored by the foundation we have donated our energies and some money to for the past ten years, FSSCA, soon to have the new name of Eco-Vida. We assist 86 small rural villages in El Salvador with microfinanced chicken farms and agricultural and reforestation projects to name a few. It is the 30th anniversary of the assassination of Archbishop Oscar Romero, a real hero to the people of El Salvador. I will be helping our leader as we have a large group this time, 22 people from around the states and happily Portland has a nice contingency of 5 people joining the delegation.
Gary is not at all worried about feeling lonely in San Miguel. We have made lots of friends here and he loves going to the Bibliotecha where he not only checks out books but enjoys partaking of the many lectures and films offered on a full gamut of subject matters. He will also attend the annual Spring Equinox ceremonies up at the beautiful botanical gardens on a higher hill above us with friends. I regret I am going to miss that this year.
Hope this finds you all healthy and happy enjoying the approaching Spring. We hear cold weather is still upon you and feel very appreciative of our lovely warm 75-80 degree days. Nights are still somewhat chlly but it's great to awake to blue skies and sunshine.
Hasta luego,
Sher
P.S. Here's a book tip. I am just finishing Barbara Kingsolver's wonderful new novel, La Lacuna, and have enjoyed it immensely. The plot, much of which takes place in Mexico of the 20's and 30's amongst a host of interesting characters such as Diego Rivera, Frida Kahlo, and Trotsky to name a few, is fascinating and the main character, Harrison Sheppard of both Mexican and Gringo heritage, is intriguing. An important segment of the book takes place in the US as well, during the pivotal time of WWII and the aftermath "fear mongering" of press and government alike known as the McCarthy Era. Kingsolver makes her politicl points cleverly using actual newslippings of the era which earmark similarities to our time and its "politics of fear". I suggest you read the book.
Well, the fact that we have not found time to do weekly posts on this blog is indictive of the very busy lives we are leading here. As I am sitting here next to our big arched window, I am witnessing the "fourth of July" in Mexico, a fireworks display par excellance with reds, golds, blues, all colors of the rainbow and the popping sounds which accompany it. Sounds of the mariachis in the streets below us, waft up our hill and the celebration is on. We are not sure for what but, as we said last year, every day in San Miguel is a fiesta. We do know that Monday is a holiday celebrating the birthday of Bonito Juarez, the much loved past president of Mexico who brought changes for the poor and working classes and also passed a law separating Church and State. He was the first and only, we think, indigenous (i.e. indio) to become President.
We are staying in tonight despite the temptation to join the festivities as we have had a very active week since last Saturday, when we left for the Sierra Gordo ("fat mountains") of the neighboring state of Queretero, for a three day car trip. We shared the rental car with our friends, Rosalie and Jack, from Denver Colorado. Rosalie and I researched the area on the internet and with questions to our local Mexicana friends and it sounded too good to pass up.
We left early Saturday morning and by 9 o'clock we were in the charming town of Tequisiapan with a lovely walking street and large central plaza surrounded by an arcade and the usual focal point, a large church with bell tower and decorative coral orange and white facade. We found a cute restaurant and ate breakfast outside under the arcade. Chiliquillias, fresh squeesed orange juice and coffee came to about $4.00 each. After exploring more of the town, we headed for the hills. As we climbed higher up into the beautiful mountains which rose from dry, mesquite and cactus covered "cerros" to a height of 7,500ft. we found ourselves above the "cloud forest" known as "La Puerta de Cielito" ---"The Door to Heaven". As we rose in altitude we were surrounded by a richly vegetated forest of pines, deciduous trees reminding us of autumn with some turning light gold and orange and others covered with pink and magenta blossoms which we later learned were peach trees. Believe it or not, this was mixed with pre-historic looking palms all in bloom with pendulums of white flowers and lower down were a mix of cactus. The area is know for its biodiversity and one can see why. It is actually about 4000 acres of protected biosphere. .We visited several small pueblos and stayed in one the first night by the name of San Joaquin (brings back memories of my high school days in the San Joaquin valley of California when my dad was transferred to Bakersfield---believe me, this San Joaquin was far more picturesque!) We found two clean rooms with baths to rent from Senor Casas (means "houses" appropriately)for only $20 for the night! Senor Casas seemed to be the most entrepreneurial man in town, owning the local Abarrotes (small grocery store) and the lodgings as well as having an interest in the two restaurants, one he recommended for dinner and the other for breakfast. While in SJ we explored the nearby archeological site of Las Ranas, just unearthed in the late 1980's, The ruins were in a beautiful "bosque" which means forest, but were not as dramatic as Monte Alben or Mixla which we visited in Qaxaca last year.
The second day we went on to Jalpan which is the center of a region known for its five famous missions designed by the famous Father Junipera Sera. We remember his many missions in California. We visited two of the five here, which was enough---they are each very differenct with beautiful decorated (almost rococco) facades containing reliefs of the saints and an interesting symbol on each, of the crossed arms and hands of the Dominicans and the Franciscans, apparently representing the "joint venture" in converting the "savage" indios. I must say after the two, and thinking about the suffering of the native peoples building these glorious icons to the church, we had had enough. We were tired and hungry and drove back into Jalpan for dinner at the hotel we had found earlier in the day. We had a rather restless night with a strange noise waking us up which we later found out was some kind of vibrating water pipes just outside our room. After breakfast the next day we headed back towards the big city of Queretero stopping for a couple of hours at Bernal which Rosalie and Jack hadn't seen yet. We described this pretty Mexican town in a former post. After a delicious late lunch there we returned to San Miguel just in time to turn our car in and say Buenos Noches!
Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday I went to the sculpture studio of Mario, the best artists' secret in town which I learned about from a gringo friend last year. I am having a wax sculpture cast here at Mario's foundry, as the cost is so much less than in the US. I started the sculpture 30 years ago at a workshop in Mendocino California and have had fun finally finishing it here. I am now working on a second sculpture. We had guests for dinner on Tuesday night with drinks before on our terrace from where we have a vista of beautiful sunsets and the city below us. Being up high on the hill is a real advantage except when we climb it everyday coming home from our activities in town. It's great exercise. Gary has been doing some woodcarving and vsited with a local wood sculptor, who he hopes to visit more next week when I am in El Salvador. I leave on Thursday, March 18th and will return via Mexico City on the 26th. I will be joining the Romero Delegation sponsored by the foundation we have donated our energies and some money to for the past ten years, FSSCA, soon to have the new name of Eco-Vida. We assist 86 small rural villages in El Salvador with microfinanced chicken farms and agricultural and reforestation projects to name a few. It is the 30th anniversary of the assassination of Archbishop Oscar Romero, a real hero to the people of El Salvador. I will be helping our leader as we have a large group this time, 22 people from around the states and happily Portland has a nice contingency of 5 people joining the delegation.
Gary is not at all worried about feeling lonely in San Miguel. We have made lots of friends here and he loves going to the Bibliotecha where he not only checks out books but enjoys partaking of the many lectures and films offered on a full gamut of subject matters. He will also attend the annual Spring Equinox ceremonies up at the beautiful botanical gardens on a higher hill above us with friends. I regret I am going to miss that this year.
Hope this finds you all healthy and happy enjoying the approaching Spring. We hear cold weather is still upon you and feel very appreciative of our lovely warm 75-80 degree days. Nights are still somewhat chlly but it's great to awake to blue skies and sunshine.
Hasta luego,
Sher
P.S. Here's a book tip. I am just finishing Barbara Kingsolver's wonderful new novel, La Lacuna, and have enjoyed it immensely. The plot, much of which takes place in Mexico of the 20's and 30's amongst a host of interesting characters such as Diego Rivera, Frida Kahlo, and Trotsky to name a few, is fascinating and the main character, Harrison Sheppard of both Mexican and Gringo heritage, is intriguing. An important segment of the book takes place in the US as well, during the pivotal time of WWII and the aftermath "fear mongering" of press and government alike known as the McCarthy Era. Kingsolver makes her politicl points cleverly using actual newslippings of the era which earmark similarities to our time and its "politics of fear". I suggest you read the book.
Monday, March 1, 2010
Continuation of Our San Miguel Story
Hola, or perhaps I should say 'buenes Noches": We just arrived home from a wonderful dinner out at "Mama Mia's" a good restaurent in the center of town about ten minutes from our casita. Now I must tell you about the others around the table and the story of how it happened that we were having dinner with 2 Mexicans and a Salvadoreno.
Last night we came home after a wonderful Sunday starting with brunch with friends, Rosalie and Jack, who we met in Lake Patzcuaro last year and who visited us in Portland last summer.
After brunch Gary and I dashed off to buy our "verduras and frutas" at the mercado to replenish our food supply. About 4 o'clock we went to the opening of the Baroque Music Festival in the Central square in commemoration of Mexico's bi-centennial and Centenario of the Revolution and the War of Independence. It will continue all week with performances every night, each with its own special theme representing pre-hispanic times to the present. We spent two hours outside in the central plaza, known as El Jardin,where a special stage was erected for the spectacle. We watched a theatrical threesom and a marionette act out a scene with Louis the 14th and Marie Antoinette and a friend lamenting that they could not return to the past (it was a satire, of course, and very "Molieresque" with many laughs). They introduced a baroque quartet who played Vivaldi, Bach, and others from the period (a flute, violincello, violin and harpsichord). The whole preformance was quite wonderful and Free!
Now, here is where our incredible story really begins: We walked home entering the main casa where we were greeted by our hostess, Maria Elena who invited us to join her on the patio with a visiting friend. It turns out that the friend was Father Eustaquio Martinez Pena, a priest from El Salvador---she remembered I had been to El Salvador and thought I would like to meet him. Of course, it was delightful and more so when we both realized we knew the same person, Jose "Chencho" Alas, our friend and the man who inspired Gary and I to work with the Foundaton for Self Sufficiency in Central America ten years ago. Eustaquio's nickname is "Tacho" and he knew Chencho very well, as during the war they were priests under the tutelage of Archbishop Romero, the hero of El Salvador who was assasinated in 1980 because he spoke out for the poor. Tacho and Chencho were both tortured by the right wing paramilitary. Chencho escaped to the USA and Tacho was one of only two who made it to Mexico for they had to find families that would sponsor or, as they say, adopt them. He was a young priest of 21 years old. Of all the families and people in San Miguel. would you believe that my friend, Francisca (mother of Maria Elena)was the mother of that family who took him in. She is the one who I lived with nine years ago when I came to San Miguel to study Spanish. I remembered that,at that time she told me she had an adopted son there", but I never understood the full story until now. Tacho is now a priest in San Salvador, after completeing his semenary studies in Morelia, Mexico and returning to his country of origin after the Peace Accords were signed in 1992, when my friend Chencho also returned and started the Foundation to which Gary and I contribute. He was quite anxious to know how Chencho is and what he is doing and we had much to talk about. What a miracle this is. He is a delightful man of 51 years old (Chencho was his elder, now being 74 years old). It has been a very rewarding experience, the least of which is that I was able to converse for an hour in Spanish (he speaks no English and Marie Elena doesn't speak much English either). Once we met he decided to spend an extra day here and Gary and I were invited to go to dinner with him, Maria Elena and her brother, Salvador, this evening. My head is full of new Spanish words and expressions that I have learned, and I think Gary's is, too. Luckily, Salvador speaks a little more English and between the two of us we were able to translate for Gary. Well, I know this is a long story but I think it is quite remarkable and I just wanted to share it with you, friends, who, for so long, have witnessed my passion for the people of El Salvador and Nicaragua. We met our first Salvadorenos in Nicaragua as they were refugees from the war there. It's been a type of "odyssey" since our time working in the hospital in Nicaragua in 1987.
Well, as they say in espanol, "esta suficiente"---this is sufficient to show a little of why we say magical things happen in San Miguel.
To go on with other happenings and entertainments, Gary and I enjoyed a wonderful classical guitar concert last Sunday with a renowned guitarist Maestro Enrique Florez who once studied with Andreas Segovia in Spain. He played the ten string classical guitar, which was quite amazing to hear and to watch.
The Sunday before that, we went out to La Gruta, a hot springs spa and grotto about fifteen minutes out of town. Farrel and Joe joined us and we had a very relaxing time bathing in the hot springs pool and having lunch at the small restaurant there on a lovely lawn at a table under an umbrella. It was one of our first really warm and lovely days. Since then the weather has been increasingly warmer with cool mornings and evenings.
Our guests left last Wednesdayand since then I have been trying to get back to a routine of writing daily---this has been a challenge with my Spanish studies, daily activities like films and lectures at the Bibliotecha and invitations to join new friends for "bebidas"--drinks, lunches, etc.
Our next post will be about our adventure coming up this weekend, March 6,7 and 8th, when we are going with our friends, Rosalie and Jack to what sounds like a fascinating area in the high mountains of the Sierra Gordo, outside of Queretero in the state of Quereterro where we will see Toltec archiological sites in Ranas, and near San Juaquin,a group of five missions designed by Fray Junipero Serra, si, the same one who built or rather had built by the indios, missions in California. they are supposed to be quite spectacular and in excellent condition in spite of the fact that they were built in the mid 1700's. We will also visit several interesting villages along the way on Hwy 120. and then stop in Bernal on the way home on Monday, the 8th. We are sharing a car rental with our friends so we will be free to go at our own pace. It is an area where it would be hard to go by bus. On one of the high and very winding roads we will go along a place called "La Puerta del Cielo"(Door to the Sky) which is apt because the guidebooks say you are at such an altitude in an area of mists where you can actually look down on the clouds. Sounds interestng doesn't it?
So, amigos, we will continue to share our adventures upon our return from our weekend trip. We send warm "abrazos" to you all and hope you are experiencing good health and the beginning of Springtime wherever you are. Que te vayas bien!
Sher and Gary
Last night we came home after a wonderful Sunday starting with brunch with friends, Rosalie and Jack, who we met in Lake Patzcuaro last year and who visited us in Portland last summer.
After brunch Gary and I dashed off to buy our "verduras and frutas" at the mercado to replenish our food supply. About 4 o'clock we went to the opening of the Baroque Music Festival in the Central square in commemoration of Mexico's bi-centennial and Centenario of the Revolution and the War of Independence. It will continue all week with performances every night, each with its own special theme representing pre-hispanic times to the present. We spent two hours outside in the central plaza, known as El Jardin,where a special stage was erected for the spectacle. We watched a theatrical threesom and a marionette act out a scene with Louis the 14th and Marie Antoinette and a friend lamenting that they could not return to the past (it was a satire, of course, and very "Molieresque" with many laughs). They introduced a baroque quartet who played Vivaldi, Bach, and others from the period (a flute, violincello, violin and harpsichord). The whole preformance was quite wonderful and Free!
Now, here is where our incredible story really begins: We walked home entering the main casa where we were greeted by our hostess, Maria Elena who invited us to join her on the patio with a visiting friend. It turns out that the friend was Father Eustaquio Martinez Pena, a priest from El Salvador---she remembered I had been to El Salvador and thought I would like to meet him. Of course, it was delightful and more so when we both realized we knew the same person, Jose "Chencho" Alas, our friend and the man who inspired Gary and I to work with the Foundaton for Self Sufficiency in Central America ten years ago. Eustaquio's nickname is "Tacho" and he knew Chencho very well, as during the war they were priests under the tutelage of Archbishop Romero, the hero of El Salvador who was assasinated in 1980 because he spoke out for the poor. Tacho and Chencho were both tortured by the right wing paramilitary. Chencho escaped to the USA and Tacho was one of only two who made it to Mexico for they had to find families that would sponsor or, as they say, adopt them. He was a young priest of 21 years old. Of all the families and people in San Miguel. would you believe that my friend, Francisca (mother of Maria Elena)was the mother of that family who took him in. She is the one who I lived with nine years ago when I came to San Miguel to study Spanish. I remembered that,at that time she told me she had an adopted son there", but I never understood the full story until now. Tacho is now a priest in San Salvador, after completeing his semenary studies in Morelia, Mexico and returning to his country of origin after the Peace Accords were signed in 1992, when my friend Chencho also returned and started the Foundation to which Gary and I contribute. He was quite anxious to know how Chencho is and what he is doing and we had much to talk about. What a miracle this is. He is a delightful man of 51 years old (Chencho was his elder, now being 74 years old). It has been a very rewarding experience, the least of which is that I was able to converse for an hour in Spanish (he speaks no English and Marie Elena doesn't speak much English either). Once we met he decided to spend an extra day here and Gary and I were invited to go to dinner with him, Maria Elena and her brother, Salvador, this evening. My head is full of new Spanish words and expressions that I have learned, and I think Gary's is, too. Luckily, Salvador speaks a little more English and between the two of us we were able to translate for Gary. Well, I know this is a long story but I think it is quite remarkable and I just wanted to share it with you, friends, who, for so long, have witnessed my passion for the people of El Salvador and Nicaragua. We met our first Salvadorenos in Nicaragua as they were refugees from the war there. It's been a type of "odyssey" since our time working in the hospital in Nicaragua in 1987.
Well, as they say in espanol, "esta suficiente"---this is sufficient to show a little of why we say magical things happen in San Miguel.
To go on with other happenings and entertainments, Gary and I enjoyed a wonderful classical guitar concert last Sunday with a renowned guitarist Maestro Enrique Florez who once studied with Andreas Segovia in Spain. He played the ten string classical guitar, which was quite amazing to hear and to watch.
The Sunday before that, we went out to La Gruta, a hot springs spa and grotto about fifteen minutes out of town. Farrel and Joe joined us and we had a very relaxing time bathing in the hot springs pool and having lunch at the small restaurant there on a lovely lawn at a table under an umbrella. It was one of our first really warm and lovely days. Since then the weather has been increasingly warmer with cool mornings and evenings.
Our guests left last Wednesdayand since then I have been trying to get back to a routine of writing daily---this has been a challenge with my Spanish studies, daily activities like films and lectures at the Bibliotecha and invitations to join new friends for "bebidas"--drinks, lunches, etc.
Our next post will be about our adventure coming up this weekend, March 6,7 and 8th, when we are going with our friends, Rosalie and Jack to what sounds like a fascinating area in the high mountains of the Sierra Gordo, outside of Queretero in the state of Quereterro where we will see Toltec archiological sites in Ranas, and near San Juaquin,a group of five missions designed by Fray Junipero Serra, si, the same one who built or rather had built by the indios, missions in California. they are supposed to be quite spectacular and in excellent condition in spite of the fact that they were built in the mid 1700's. We will also visit several interesting villages along the way on Hwy 120. and then stop in Bernal on the way home on Monday, the 8th. We are sharing a car rental with our friends so we will be free to go at our own pace. It is an area where it would be hard to go by bus. On one of the high and very winding roads we will go along a place called "La Puerta del Cielo"(Door to the Sky) which is apt because the guidebooks say you are at such an altitude in an area of mists where you can actually look down on the clouds. Sounds interestng doesn't it?
So, amigos, we will continue to share our adventures upon our return from our weekend trip. We send warm "abrazos" to you all and hope you are experiencing good health and the beginning of Springtime wherever you are. Que te vayas bien!
Sher and Gary
More News from Magical San Miguel
Hola familia y amigos,
Lo siento (translated: I am sorry!) for not getting back to you since the 17th of February. Needless to say, our time is filled with continuing adventures, new acquaintances, studies in Spanish and one discovery after another. There is certainly never a dull momentito in this
magical colonia city. It is like "peeling back the layers of an onion---only to discover a new layer", more meating and pungent than the last---legrimas (tears) flow with the joy and excitement of it all. Oh, that's corny but you know me!
Since I last wrote you, the Writers' Conference came and went, our guests Farrel and Joe, from
Sonoma California, came and went and I have almost completed my 2 1/2 week Spanish course which has been the best one yet---an in depth exploration of the 7 major and minor tenses of the Spanish verbs most used! I know that must sound very dry to those of you who do not consider yourselves linguists but it has been fascinating for me and especially when I have been able to apply what I learn daily on the streets of San Miguel, in converstions with taxi drivers and shop owners and most importantly with our lovely house hosts, mi amiga Francisca's daughter and son, Maria Elena and Salvador as well as sweet Araceli, the maid who comes about 4 times a week and is always ready to help me with my Spanish or with anything else I might need, like an extra plate for dinner guests, a tray to take a pot luck fruit platter to our Spanish Class pot luck (must tell you about that!), etc. Was that one long, runny sentence? A "no, no" for writers.
The Writers's conference (Feb. 19-23) was fabulous. One of many highlights was the keynote address by reknowned US author, Barbara Kingsolver whose new book , La Lacuna, takes place in Mexico of the 30's and 40"s . She was articulate, humorous and adept in answering the audience's questions which were many. The next morning there was a detailed Q&A time also for many questions to be answered and then a wonderful panel discussion with several other authors both from North America and here, including most importantly, a Mexican authoress who was wonderful and actually criticized one aspect of Kingsolver's book, the inaccuracies in the translations of Spanish words in the text. Ms. Kingsolver quickly responded that she was well aware of them and because the Publisher assiged a copy writer who did not speak Spanish(not so smart) and in their haste to get the first edition published did not correct. Kingsolver said she has insisted the next edition be corrected. I guess we shall see. The critic, otherwise, loved the book and said Kingsolver accurately portrayed the levels of Mexico's caste system and she found it "rich in detail" and spellbinding!
Lucky for me, I was able to be a voluntary door monitor for some of the events so was offered a chance to attend two of the mini workshops, one on "character development" with writer from Eugene, Oregon, John Reed author of several books, and one on fiction writing with author, Elizabeth Powell, from Vermont. Both workshops were extremely interesting and helpful to my process of trying to write my first novel.
In the meantime, we had a great time with our guests, Farrel and Joe who were low maintenance guests, joining us for the writers conference main events, the keynote and a wonderful play, "Jamaica Farewell", the closing event. Check it out on the web---the playwrite, a beautiful and talented writer and actress, immigrated from Jamaica, tells her harrowing story of her migration in her superb one woman show which will be made into a movie and played on Off Broadway to rave reviews. She was here and acted in her play and shared anecdotal stories with the audience at the end. Farrel and Joe also enjoyed joining us for another fabulous concert with Richard Dowling, famed pianist, who did a concert of Chopins music in honor of the anniversary of his birth. Our visitors got an insider's view of San Miguel de Allende with our frequent invitations to friend's casas and casitas, dinner out at some fun restaurants, shopping in the mercado and preparing meals in our small apartment kitchen with many laughs as we bumped into each other!
Oops---just looked at the clock and we have a dinner date with Maria Elena, Salvador and the mystery guest, who is now not a mystery but a wonderful coincidental, serendipitous new acquaintance from El Salvador who is staying with them for two days---a marvelous story to tell you---but you must wait. To be continued in my next post later tonight or tomorrow morning!
Hasta luego, amigos,
Sher
Lo siento (translated: I am sorry!) for not getting back to you since the 17th of February. Needless to say, our time is filled with continuing adventures, new acquaintances, studies in Spanish and one discovery after another. There is certainly never a dull momentito in this
magical colonia city. It is like "peeling back the layers of an onion---only to discover a new layer", more meating and pungent than the last---legrimas (tears) flow with the joy and excitement of it all. Oh, that's corny but you know me!
Since I last wrote you, the Writers' Conference came and went, our guests Farrel and Joe, from
Sonoma California, came and went and I have almost completed my 2 1/2 week Spanish course which has been the best one yet---an in depth exploration of the 7 major and minor tenses of the Spanish verbs most used! I know that must sound very dry to those of you who do not consider yourselves linguists but it has been fascinating for me and especially when I have been able to apply what I learn daily on the streets of San Miguel, in converstions with taxi drivers and shop owners and most importantly with our lovely house hosts, mi amiga Francisca's daughter and son, Maria Elena and Salvador as well as sweet Araceli, the maid who comes about 4 times a week and is always ready to help me with my Spanish or with anything else I might need, like an extra plate for dinner guests, a tray to take a pot luck fruit platter to our Spanish Class pot luck (must tell you about that!), etc. Was that one long, runny sentence? A "no, no" for writers.
The Writers's conference (Feb. 19-23) was fabulous. One of many highlights was the keynote address by reknowned US author, Barbara Kingsolver whose new book , La Lacuna, takes place in Mexico of the 30's and 40"s . She was articulate, humorous and adept in answering the audience's questions which were many. The next morning there was a detailed Q&A time also for many questions to be answered and then a wonderful panel discussion with several other authors both from North America and here, including most importantly, a Mexican authoress who was wonderful and actually criticized one aspect of Kingsolver's book, the inaccuracies in the translations of Spanish words in the text. Ms. Kingsolver quickly responded that she was well aware of them and because the Publisher assiged a copy writer who did not speak Spanish(not so smart) and in their haste to get the first edition published did not correct. Kingsolver said she has insisted the next edition be corrected. I guess we shall see. The critic, otherwise, loved the book and said Kingsolver accurately portrayed the levels of Mexico's caste system and she found it "rich in detail" and spellbinding!
Lucky for me, I was able to be a voluntary door monitor for some of the events so was offered a chance to attend two of the mini workshops, one on "character development" with writer from Eugene, Oregon, John Reed author of several books, and one on fiction writing with author, Elizabeth Powell, from Vermont. Both workshops were extremely interesting and helpful to my process of trying to write my first novel.
In the meantime, we had a great time with our guests, Farrel and Joe who were low maintenance guests, joining us for the writers conference main events, the keynote and a wonderful play, "Jamaica Farewell", the closing event. Check it out on the web---the playwrite, a beautiful and talented writer and actress, immigrated from Jamaica, tells her harrowing story of her migration in her superb one woman show which will be made into a movie and played on Off Broadway to rave reviews. She was here and acted in her play and shared anecdotal stories with the audience at the end. Farrel and Joe also enjoyed joining us for another fabulous concert with Richard Dowling, famed pianist, who did a concert of Chopins music in honor of the anniversary of his birth. Our visitors got an insider's view of San Miguel de Allende with our frequent invitations to friend's casas and casitas, dinner out at some fun restaurants, shopping in the mercado and preparing meals in our small apartment kitchen with many laughs as we bumped into each other!
Oops---just looked at the clock and we have a dinner date with Maria Elena, Salvador and the mystery guest, who is now not a mystery but a wonderful coincidental, serendipitous new acquaintance from El Salvador who is staying with them for two days---a marvelous story to tell you---but you must wait. To be continued in my next post later tonight or tomorrow morning!
Hasta luego, amigos,
Sher
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